![]() If you skip this step, you could end up with dust and dirt between the substrate and adhesion material, which can show through on the print.Ĥ. You can use canned air or an air compressor. Make sure your substrate is clean before you apply it to the material. Roll out the pressure-sensitive paper, tacky side up. You can use a straight-edge to hold down the one side so it doesn’t curl up.ģ. Spray the print in a well-ventilated area.Ģ. Don’t worry, it won’t change texture or color. Apply the varnish to your print to add a protective layer. Mounting hardware-framing wire and eye hooks work wellġ.Point gun and framer’s points-like a staple gun to hold the substrate to the frame.X-Acto knife-make sure it’s sharp because a dull knife will created jagged edges.Brayer-to roll over and press the print down.Pressure-sensitive adhesive-has release paper on one side and is tacky on the inside.Foamcore-Roslund uses Gatorboard, Sintra Board, or any kind of substrate.Varnish-something like Moab Desert Varnish.The larger the print, the harder it is to mount, so you might want to start with an 8×10 or 11×14. If you have a photo printer at home and want to know how to mount your prints on foamcore, Roslund takes you through a process you can do yourself that is very similar to what they do in a lab. Commercial photographer Tony Roslund shows us how we can skip going to the photo lab by mounting and framing prints ourselves: ![]() It can get pretty pricey having your prints mounted and framed.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |